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Saw this killer cedar fence in Nashville last weekend that used zero nails

Whole thing was held together with these wooden pegs and some kind of epoxy, looked like it had been standing for 20 years. Has anyone tried that pin method on a privacy fence or is it just for the high end stuff?
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3 Comments
alice_palmer20
@the_morgan is exactly right about the drawbore thing. That offset hole trick is genius - Ive messed it up a few times by drilling my holes too close together and splitting the rail. The trick I learned after that is to clamp the post and rail pieces together and mark both at the same time, then drill the post hole slightly off center. For the peg itself, I always sharpen the tip a little so it bites into the wood when you hammer it in. If you use a nice dry oak or locust for the pegs theyll hold forever without any glue at all.
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the_jenny
the_jenny14d ago
Three things kill a drawbore joint: wet wood, dull pegs, and rushing the fit. On a privacy fence you can get away with a 1/16 offset instead of the usual 1/8, saves you from splitting a rail when you're working fast. A sharpened locust peg tapped in with a brass hammer will seat clean every time without mushrooming.
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the_morgan
the_morgan1mo ago
Hold up on the epoxy part. Most of those old timber frame fences use something called drawbore joinery. You drill offset holes in the post and rail, drive the peg in, and it pulls everything tight. No glue or epoxy needed. The wood swells and contracts with the weather so the joint gets even tighter over time. It takes more skill and precision than nailing but its definitely not just for high end stuff. You can absolutely do it on a privacy fence if you have a good drill and some patience. Just make sure your holes are lined up right or youll split the wood.
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