c/arborists

A 30-foot spruce in Boise decided to split right down the middle as I was setting my line.

We had to drop the whole thing in one piece into the street, which took some quick thinking with a second winch. Anyone ever have a tree just give up like that right when you're tied in?

Honestly thought a cheap pole saw from the hardware store would be fine for small jobs

Ngl, I bought a $90 one last spring and the cable snapped after maybe 15 uses, dropping a section right onto a client's fence. Tbh, I ended up paying $300 out of pocket for the repair and lost the whole job. What's a solid brand for a lightweight pole saw that won't fall apart?

Hot take: I swore by my old climbing line for a decade, but after a buddy in Seattle made me try a 24-strand double-braid for a week, the difference in grip and wear on my hands was night and day.

I used to think my trusty 16-strand was all I needed, but handling that smoother double-braid on a big pin oak removal last Thursday changed my mind completely... what other gear have you all switched to that you initially resisted?

Finally got that stubborn willow stump out after three days of digging

Man, what a week. We had this old willow removal job in the north end of town, and the stump was just a monster. The client wanted it gone for a new garden, and the root ball was tangled up with old clay pipe from the 70s. I spent two full days with just the stump grinder and a digging bar, barely making a dent. On the third morning, I brought in a small winch from my truck and hooked it to a solid oak across the yard. After another four hours of cutting roots and pulling, the whole thing finally gave way with this huge cracking sound. My helper just looked at me and said, 'I thought we were gonna live here.' Felt so good to see that clean hole. Anyone ever have a stump fight them that hard?

Appreciation post: A snapped cambium saver rope taught me a quick field fix

I was up in a big pin oak in Springfield, about 25 feet up, when my rope saver's sheath gave out with a loud pop. The core was still intact, so I had to get down safely. I tied a double fisherman's bend below the damaged section to isolate it, then used a carabiner to redirect my climbing line. It got me to the ground without having to call for a second rope. Anyone have a better knot or method for a situation like that?

Question about using old growth wood chips for mulch

My friend, a soil scientist, told me 'that old cedar mulch you're using is basically locking up nitrogen for two years while it breaks down' and now I'm rethinking my whole approach to client landscaping beds.

Remember when we all climbed on spurs for a simple prune?

Back in the early 2000s, my first boss in Tacoma had us spur up a 40-foot maple for a basic crown clean. Now, I use a lift for anything over 25 feet if the site allows. The change came around 2015 for me, after seeing too many guys with knee and back issues. Anyone else make that switch, and how did you convince the old-timers it was worth the rental cost?

I just counted the rings on a white oak we took down yesterday. 312 years old, and it was growing before my town was even founded.

Spent three hours on a pine stump that should have taken forty-five minutes

Got a call for a simple pine removal in Overland Park, but the stump was a nightmare. It had a massive, twisted root system wrapped around an old concrete footing the homeowner 'forgot' to mention. My Stihl MS 261 just could not get through the mess of wood and concrete. Ended up having to dig out a huge area and use a demo saw. Anyone else run into hidden concrete around tree bases?

Tried a new climbing hitch on a big pine removal last week and it just... didn't hold.

Switched from my usual VT to a Knut for a 60-foot pine in the rain, thinking the extra grip would help. The thing kept creeping on me the whole time, which was a real pain and slowed everything down. Anyone have a better wet-weather hitch they swear by?

I always thought a 3/8 inch climbing line was fine for removals, but a big oak in Decatur proved me wrong

Last Tuesday I was working a 70 foot pin oak removal, same setup I've used for five years. About 30 feet up, my line got stuck in a tight crotch during a heavy limb drop. The friction heat from trying to work it free actually melted a small section of the sheath. I had to switch to my backup line and finish the job way slower. Now I'm looking at getting a beefier 1/2 inch line just for big removals. What do you all run for your big tree rigging?

I'm not convinced a 3-point tie-in is always the safest for a bucket truck

Had a big silver maple removal in Cincinnati where a secondary lead shifted unexpectedly, and my third strap was actually a liability, limiting my movement to get clear. I had to cut the strap to get out of the way, which was a real eye-opener. Anyone else had a situation where standard rigging protocol made things more dangerous?

Shoutout to the guy who suggested a different way to cut a heavy limb

I was taking down a big maple limb over a shed in my client's yard, and instead of my usual three-cut method, I tried a single undercut with a notch on top first. The limb twisted and pinched my bar so hard I had to get a second saw to free it. Has anyone else had a plan backfire because you changed up a basic cut?

Bought a cheap climbing rope from a discount site and it snapped on the first big job

I was doing a big removal on a maple in Springfield and the rope broke about 20 feet up. I fell into a big pile of brush, which hurt a lot and wrecked my gear. The rope cost me $80, but the doctor visit and new helmet set me back over $500. What brands do you guys trust for climbing gear that won't kill your wallet?

I finally saw a crew use a throw line in a way that blew my mind

I was watching a job in Springfield yesterday and the lead climber said 'watch this' before launching a bag over a branch 60 feet up. He used it to pull a second, heavier line through without ever leaving the ground, saving a ton of time on a tricky back yard oak. Has anyone else picked up a throw line trick that changed your whole setup routine?

Pro tip: never trust a 'slight lean' on a windy day

I was doing a removal on a big silver maple in a tight backyard in Akron, the wind was picking up but the owner wanted it done. I made my face cut, and the whole thing sat back on my saw. The wind caught the crown and shifted the weight just enough. I had to wedge it from the side, free my bar, and re-notch the whole thing while it was pinched. Has anyone else had a tree move on them like that after the cut was started?

My big mistake with a new climbing rope that cost me a full day's pay

So I bought this new 11mm static line from a brand I hadn't tried before, thinking it would be a good backup. It was about $180. First real job with it, a big pine removal, and the sheath started bunching up and sliding over the core after just a few ascents. It wasn't unsafe, but it made everything feel sloppy and slowed me down a ton. I had to stop and switch back to my old line, which wasted over an hour. Between that and the cost of the rope, I'm out like $300 for the day. Some guys say you should always stick with the proven brands, others say you gotta try new gear to find good stuff. What's your rule for testing new equipment without losing money on a job?

This homeowner in Phoenix wanted me to 'just top it' to save $500

I was out giving a quote on a massive old mesquite tree in their backyard. The thing was a beast, maybe 40 feet tall with a huge spread. I explained the deadwood, the crossing limbs, the whole proper reduction plan to get it healthy and safe. The guy just looked at me and said, 'Can't you just chop the top 10 feet off? My buddy said that's way cheaper.' I had to explain, again, that topping creates a million weak water sprouts and basically dooms the tree. He got all huffy and said I was just trying to upsell him. It's so frustrating when people think they know better after watching one YouTube video. How do you guys handle clients who insist on bad practices to save a buck?

Had to choose between a new climbing saw or fixing the old Stihl 201T for a big maple removal in Tacoma.

Went with the repair, but the carb gave out halfway up and I lost a whole morning. Anyone else had a job go sideways because of a tool you thought was solid?

Switched from a 3-strand to a 12-strand climbing rope last season

I used the same old 3-strand for years, thinking it was fine. Got a Samson Hyperclimb 12-strand on a deal last fall. The difference in handling was huge right away, way less stiff and easier to tie. After about 6 months of daily use, I noticed my hands and arms weren't as tired at the end of a big removal. The splice runs smoother through my pulley too. Anyone else make a rope change that actually reduced fatigue?

Just realized I've climbed over 500 trees in my city's park system alone

I was going through my work logs from the past three years, mostly for tax stuff, and I started adding up the jobs. When I hit 527 individual trees climbed in just our local parks, it kind of stopped me. I mean, I knew I was out there a lot, but seeing that number made it real. It's not just a job anymore, it's like I know each of those oaks and maples personally. I remember the big sycamore by the river that had the wasp nest, and the old pine that needed the crown reduction after the storm. That number matters because it shows the sheer volume of care this urban forest needs, and how much hands-on work goes into keeping it safe and healthy. Has anyone else ever tallied up their climbs and been surprised by the scale?

Just realized a trick for dealing with stubborn root flare dirt on a big oak

I was working on a big pin oak in Springfield last week, and the root flare was packed with old, hard clay. I tried a pressure washer on a low setting, but it just wasn't cutting it. On a whim, I grabbed a cheap plastic putty knife from my truck and gently worked it around the base to break up the crust. It worked way better than I expected and didn't nick the bark at all. Anyone have a different go-to tool for this kind of job?

Appreciation post: The old guy at the hardware store in Bend said something about my climbing rope

I was buying a new carabiner and mentioned my 11mm rope was getting fuzzy, and he said 'That's not wear, that's character, but the core is what quits on you first.' I cut a short piece off my old line and sure enough, the sheath was fine but the inner strands were frayed. How often do you guys actually check the core on your retired ropes?

Noticing a shift in how we anchor ropes for climbs...

New gear is safe, but I miss the old knots.

Update: My cheap habit with chipper maintenance cost me a whole job

I always skipped the full blade sharpening to save time, just giving them a quick file touch-up. Figured it was good enough for most cuts. Yesterday, the chipper bogged down on some damp oak limbs and stalled out twice. We lost over an hour on the clock trying to get it to chew through. The client was staring from their window the whole time, which was super awkward. Now I'm stuck resharpening everything properly tonight instead of being done. That lazy shortcut ended up making more work and looking bad. Never again, I'm doing the full service every time from now on.